She Hikes The South West Coast Path

Day 1: The journey down

I’m aware as I get further into the South West, the journeys to my start points are likely to become a little more circuitous. I really outdid myself this time:

Bus into Oxford

Rail replacement bus to Didcot

Train from Didcot to Reading

Train from Reading to Exeter

Train from Exeter to Okehampton

Bus from Okehampton to Bude

Highlight of the journey down: the beautiful Okehampton station, with a cafe I caught just before closing time to provide a much needed cup of tea.

Lowlight: travelling in between rail strike days meant the train to Exeter was PACKED. Thankfully I had a reserved seat, but there was absolutely nowhere to leave my bag. So I sat with it on my lap for the whole journey. Could just about feel my toes by the end.

Nine hours after leaving home, I made it to Bude and the traditional seafront fish and chips, gazing out at the cliffs stretching into the distance and getting hit by the nervous excitement that always sets in.

Day 2: Bude to Crackington Haven

Ascent: 2034ft Descent: 1673ft

What better way to start this leg of the adventure than a trip to the Bude Tunnel? If you’re not familiar with this highlight of the local scene, give it a google. Stocked up on malt loaf and bananas, it was time to hit the path.

The start was beautifully gentle, soft rolling slopes across to Widemouth Bay. For the first few days there was virtually no breeze, meaning some fairly airless, hot climbs. But it felt so good to be back ticking off the miles, and the views were always worth “stopping to take in” on the many ascents!

As promised, I was back under canvas for this stretch. Foolishly I’d booked a campsite about two miles inland for night one. And managed to get lost when a footpath I was following just stopped. Some inventive field hopping later and I made it to the friendliest campsite- the woman who ran it even came out with a deckchair for me to sit in, luxury!

Day 3: Crackington Haven to Boscastle

Ascent: 1955ft Descent: 2106ft

One of the many advantages of walking at this time of year is just how long the days are. I was awake around 6am most days, and up and off walking by 8am.

This was the quietest stretch I did all week, only passing three other groups over the course of the entire day.

One thing I particularly enjoy is the predictable conversations I find myself having on repeat. When I see someone approaching, unless it’s another mad long distance walker with a similarly huge pack, I know the conversation will go as follows:

Them: gosh, that bag’s bigger than you

Me: it’s not as heavy as it looks (I don’t know why I say this: it’s just as heavy as it looks)

Them: how far are you going?

Me: heading to x tonight

Them: where did you start?

Me: y

Them: amazing- what weather for it, enjoy!

These little interactions aside, I spend much of the day in complete silence, with just the soundtrack of seabirds and the waves. It’s bliss.

I treated myself to a sandwich in Boscastle and found myself sharing a bench with a couple who completed the coast path five years ago. I love these interactions the most, sharing anecdotes and hearing about parts to come. Perhaps my favourite aspect is that everyone says “oh you’ve done by far the hardest part” now when I say where I’ve got to- the north Devon and start of Cornwall stretches well recognised as apparently being the most strenuous.

My campsite for the night was just off the coast path. What a view.

Despite the scorching temperatures during the days, it still got quite chilly overnight. Cue putting on every item of clothing I’d brought with me as part of my nighttime ritual!

Day 4: Boscastle to Port Isaac

Ascent: 2375ft Descent: 2343ft

I knew this was going to be a dig deep kind of day. The coast path association book describes this stretch as “remote, lonely and often tough”. The classic high cliffs cut by precipitously steep valleys making me so thankful for my walking poles.

Endless stunning views, coupled with the motivation of knowing I was going to be sleeping in a bed at the end of it, powered me through.

Had a run in with a herd of cows blocking the path, retreated in to some bracken (me, not the cows) when one stomped and looked ready to come closer.

I arrived into Port Isaac and found Trewetha Cottage- the B&B I was staying at for the next two nights. Perfect.

Day 5: Rest day

Still managed to walk over 10 000 steps, but as my average was over treble that, this felt like a luxury. A gentle day pottering round Port Isaac, seaglass hunting and time for yet more fish and chips!

Day 6: Port Isaac to Padstow

Ascent: 1624ft Descent: 1880ft

I had been looking forward to this stretch for a while. As many of you know, we spent every childhood summer holiday in Polzeath, and it’s an area I still return to regularly. There was only a mile or so of this section that I hadn’t done before, but linking it all up was brilliant. I’d wondered how I’d find it to know exactly where I was and how much more there was to do before the end of the day, but I found my head so full of memories and reminiscing that the miles flew by.

Heading down into Port Quin, I went past Guy’s Cottage, a National Trust property we stayed in for a couple of years. Scene of this infamous photo of me and my grandparents:

Look closely and you’ll notice how much closer I’m standing to Granny- Grandpa had suggested my teddies shouldn’t feature in the photo. This had not gone down well! (Also, love that he’s wearing an NT jumper…it’s clearly in my blood!)

There’s a webcam in Polzeath we look at from time to time, and so with some well timed WhatsApp communications I managed to alert my whole family and send a wave out that they captured at home!

Day 7: Padstow to Porthcothan

Ascent: 732ft Descent: 751ft

Another early start and a beautiful stretch. Much of this section is close to holiday accommodation hot spots and so was at times teeming with fellow walkers. But in the middle section I had the path largely to myself.

One aspect of walking at this time of year that I love is the vast array of wildflowers. The hedgerows and cliff tops awash with colour.

Day 8: Porthcothan to Newquay

Ascent: 1020ft Descent: 1027ft

And so it was I’d made it to the final day. This was the one day the wind decided to wake up and come alive. Blowing directly off the land, with at times alarming force, I was glad to have Newquay in my sights.

As I rounded the final headland into Newquay, I was filled with the ever familiar mix of relief, pride, sadness and joy. Grateful every time I complete a section to be fit and healthy enough to do so, and heading home with a head full of memories and plans for the next leg.

Oh- and in exciting news, no toenails were harmed in the walking of this stretch!