She Hikes The South West Coast Path

I’m going to start this entry with a confession: this stretch I stayed in B&Bs. There, I’ve said it.

It was as though the weather gods knew and decided to punish my nighttime luxury option with some of the wettest weather I’ve ever walked in.

Don’t be fooled: the photos that follow will make it look like my miles were spent in glorious sunshine. This is only because during the many MANY downpours my phone was safely tucked away under several waterproof layers.

Day 1: The journey down

I’m becoming quite the expert on circuitous journeys to rural Devon. The route on this occasion involved:

Train from Cheltenham to Bristol

Coach from Bristol to Exeter

Train from Exeter to Barnstaple

Bus from Barnstaple to Westward Ho!

Much of the journey was spent listening to Desert Island Disc podcasts. Track of the week: William DeVaughn, Be Thankful For What You’ve Got.

On arrival at Westward Ho! I couldn’t help but think “gosh that distant headland looks a long way off”. Knowing that it would be rounded half way through Day 2, I began to feel proper apprehensive excitement.

Customary fish and chips for dinner.

Day 2: Westward Ho! to Clovelly

Ascent: 2018ft Descent: 1660ft

The start of this section follows the disused railway from Bideford to Westward Ho! and as a result is wonderfully flat and broad. I can’t explain how happy I felt to see the familiar acorn sign and know I was back on the path.

Before long, the inclines kicked in, giving me the opportunity to try out my new addition for this section: the walking poles. I now have no idea how I did the previous leg without them. I’m in love.

The weather was so much better than forecast and I was feeling very smug, until the heavens opened just as Clovelly came into view.

Unsure whether I could face the steep climb all the way down to the harbour, I was incredibly grateful when Rod from Harbour View Cottage let me check in a couple of hours early meaning I could stop half way down the high street, dry off and put my feet up!

Day 3: Clovelly to Hartland Quay

Ascent: 1631ft Descent: 1936ft

After an amazing cooked breakfast to power me on my way, I set off knowing some of the most dramatic scenery lay ahead.

For much of this section I had the path to myself. However, I did meet a friendly German woman who was also hiking alone. This facilitated the one and only non selfie photo of me from this trip:

I’m honestly not sure I have the superlatives to describe this stretch of coast. And the wildlife! Endless gannets, cormorants, kestrels, sandpipers, oyster catchers and Atlantic seals bobbing up to say hello.

My day ended at Hartland Quay hotel. The most magical location. The photos that follow were taken FROM MY BED. That view.

Day 4: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow

Ascent: 2096ft Descent: 1814ft

The section from Hartland to Bude is repeatedly described as the toughest of the whole path. My guide book suggested breaking the day in two with a stop at Morwenstow which I readily did.

On reflection, do I think it would do-able in one go? Yes.

More enjoyable split over two days? Absolutely.

By the time I arrived in Morwenstow I was soaked to the skin and incredibly glad to be calling it a day. I stumbled across Hawker’s Hut, the smallest NT property built by Morwenstow’s slightly eccentric vicar Robert Hawker, who apparently “spent many hours in the hut writing poems and smoking opium”. Suspect I felt a similar euphoria having found the perfect spot to shelter from the latest heavy rainfall.

I spent much of the evening thinking how wet I’d be if under canvas, and appreciating heated towel rails for drying out walking gear!

The rains were positively biblical at times. And this brings me on to a coast path confession. I spend a fair amount of time singing to myself as I trudge along. And it often seems to be school songs of childhood that fill my brain. At least an hour of this day was spent making up my own verses to Kumbaya. Along the lines of “Helen’s walking my lord, Kumbaya….it’s still raining my lord, Kumbaya” etc. Thankfully, I didn’t pass another soul.

And before I knew it, I’d crossed into Cornwall. That’s it, north Devon coastline: tick.

Day 5: Morwenstow to Bude

Ascent: 1181ft Descent: 1473ft

And so, the final day. I started out walking with a man from Montreal who had been at every one of my overnight stopping points. He was telling me about the various walking trails he’s done all over the world. Inspiring me to start thinking beyond SWCP. I managed to refrain from singing Kumbaya to him. He’d injured his knee and so before long he encouraged me to press on ahead.

This stretch was stunning. Headlands and huge Atlantic breakers stretching out far into the distance. The photos really don’t do it justice.

During this stretch, I learnt that one of my closest friends had had the devastating news that a dear friend of hers from medical school, Ally, has died from metastatic breast cancer. Ally was diagnosed when her son was just 15 weeks old. Ethan turned 3 last week. Various people have asked if I am doing this walk for charity. I’m not. But if anyone feels able to give to Ally’s fund, or make a donation to a cancer or hospice charity of your choice, I’d be so grateful.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/donate-in-memory-of-ally-betts

I’m heading home with a head and heart full of appreciation for a healthy body that allows me to take on these adventures. And for the best hype squad imaginable. Bring on the planning for Leg 3! (And don’t worry, the tent and crotch bottles will be back in force!)